
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Two Story Farmhouse diorama
Recently I did a "show & tell" of my homemade static grass applicator at the Piedmont meeting. I wanted to show what the device could do, so I created a little diorama using my 2 story farmhouse (by AMB) that I had previously built. This structure will probably occupy the residential district of Hoovertown that is presently under construction. Click on the picture for a larger view.


Thursday, July 29, 2010
Hoovertown residential construction begins
I've finally started to do the residential area behind the Hoovertown business district. As with the business district I want to do the work off the layout, so the first step is to make a removable support structure. Once the support structure is completed, I'll remove it from the layout and place it on my work table to add the streets, landscape, structures, etc.
I wanted something light and easy to work with, so I opted to try for the first time PVC lattice. I know that it's expensive compared to wood, but I like that you can bend sharp curves (using a heat gun) and that using the standard PVC primer and clamps can work very fast. For you engineer types this may look over-engineered and you are probably correct. I never claimed to be an engineer!
The next step will be to add a 2" thick foam top to the PVC base and then add individual foam pieces to get the contours I want. As you can see in the back left of this picture where the track crosses over itself there is a big change from in track heights around this area. So, basically the foam top of this area will have to be built up more on the left and even more in the left rear.
I wanted something light and easy to work with, so I opted to try for the first time PVC lattice. I know that it's expensive compared to wood, but I like that you can bend sharp curves (using a heat gun) and that using the standard PVC primer and clamps can work very fast. For you engineer types this may look over-engineered and you are probably correct. I never claimed to be an engineer!
The next step will be to add a 2" thick foam top to the PVC base and then add individual foam pieces to get the contours I want. As you can see in the back left of this picture where the track crosses over itself there is a big change from in track heights around this area. So, basically the foam top of this area will have to be built up more on the left and even more in the left rear.
Monday, July 19, 2010
Roy's Safe & Lock at Night
Friday, July 16, 2010
Little Gold House
I'm finishing up my latest wood structure kit - this one is by Mountaineer Precision Products (Kit #1) called "Historic Little Blue House - LaGrange, Kentucky". It's based on a real structure that is still standing in Kentucky. As you can see I didn't finish it in blue. I usually don't finish a structure in the same color as the kit shows and I prefer gold for this kit.
The kit has a 6" x 5" footprint and is well made. The gold color is actually a chaulk that I rubbed on the wood. I really like the way it doesn't fill the pores of the wood and allows the grain to show.
The foundation is kind of wacky in that it's two layers of wood. I used putty to fill the crack between the layers and painted it a concrete gray.
The differences in the shades of gold is the natural result of applying the chaulk and then handling the structure.
The roof stack didn't come with the kit. It's a piece of brass tubing that is drilled out the inside to thin the wall. The metal roof is painted gray, then brushed with a very thin solution of metalic silver and thinner. I used chaulks to add dirt and rust to the silver/gray.
All the pictures of the kit show three chimneys; however, the kit only came with two and the roof was only notched for two.
The kit has a 6" x 5" footprint and is well made. The gold color is actually a chaulk that I rubbed on the wood. I really like the way it doesn't fill the pores of the wood and allows the grain to show.
The foundation is kind of wacky in that it's two layers of wood. I used putty to fill the crack between the layers and painted it a concrete gray.
The differences in the shades of gold is the natural result of applying the chaulk and then handling the structure.
The roof stack didn't come with the kit. It's a piece of brass tubing that is drilled out the inside to thin the wall. The metal roof is painted gray, then brushed with a very thin solution of metalic silver and thinner. I used chaulks to add dirt and rust to the silver/gray.
All the pictures of the kit show three chimneys; however, the kit only came with two and the roof was only notched for two.Monday, July 12, 2010
Just a few pictures
Saturday, July 10, 2010
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Matthews Freight Yard
Haven't posted for awhile, so I thought I'd upload another excellent picture taken by my friend, Bob W. He's from the Great White North, and thus insisted on putting the CN gons on the layout for the picture. Bob does most of the painting on his locos and rolling stock and does a great job.
Click on the picture for a larger view

Click on the picture for a larger view
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Kitbash progress - B. Moore Showroom / Roy's Safe & Lock
Here's the latest progress on the kit bash of the DPM #10400 "B. Moore Showroom" which will become "Roy's Safe & Lock" plus some upstairs apartments. The original structure kit is shown on the left. Since this will be a foreground structure, I installed floors (with wood grain covering), walls (with patterned wallpaper) furniture (made from carved foam), figures, and lighting (which is different brightness in different rooms / floors).
For the ground floor there will be interior steps just beyond the left door that go up to the apartments. The balance of the windows and doors belong to Roy's Safe & Lock . As a kid I hung around a lock shop that was in a Sears parking lot along with a buddy. The locksmith was a very nice gentlemen and we actually learned a great deal about locks. As an adult I also hung around a locksmith shop and did some work for them, so the concept brings back fond memories.
The locksmith shop area on the ground floor will be fully detailed including a large key exterior hanging sign, window signs, a large safe (with the door open), counter with a cash register, wall displays, and figures. The wiring for the interior lights is now visible in the back interior of the ground floor but will be hidden by the removable ground floor interior.

For the ground floor there will be interior steps just beyond the left door that go up to the apartments. The balance of the windows and doors belong to Roy's Safe & Lock . As a kid I hung around a lock shop that was in a Sears parking lot along with a buddy. The locksmith was a very nice gentlemen and we actually learned a great deal about locks. As an adult I also hung around a locksmith shop and did some work for them, so the concept brings back fond memories.
The locksmith shop area on the ground floor will be fully detailed including a large key exterior hanging sign, window signs, a large safe (with the door open), counter with a cash register, wall displays, and figures. The wiring for the interior lights is now visible in the back interior of the ground floor but will be hidden by the removable ground floor interior.
Stay tuned for more as I continue to work (on and off) on this project.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Wire Armature Trees
A few weeks ago our operating group had a tree making clinic at one fo the member's home. We tried our hand at making many different sytles of trees using a number of methods. I took a "shining" to the wire armature method. This method uses florist wire (28 gauge) with twisting and forming the wire to make the armature. Unfortunately, we didn't have any gesso to coat the bare wire armatures to continue the process so I couldn't create the finished result.
When I got home I made a few armatures with the intent of coating them with gesso. When I went to my local craft store to purchase the gesso I was surprised to find out how costly it is. Instead of purchasing the gesso I made a poor man's version using white glue, a dash of gray liquid concrete colorant, and a secret (all purpose flour)thickening agent. I applied the mix to the armatures with a brush. The nice thing about this glue mix is that I can "set" it with a hair dryer in about 2 minutes and then apply a second coat. The mix also lasts well without drying as I've been using the "tub" of it for 10 days and it still it very usable. I've heard of possible "bug" problems using flour; however, the trees are painted which should seal them against attack by insects.
After the final coat (usually two coats are required) drys I use a hobby knife to scratch the trunk to simulate bark and then dry brush the entire armature with a gray craft paint. The foilage is Wood Scenics(tm) green poly fiber is stretched thin and attached with Hob-e-Tac(R). The fiber is misted with hair spray and sprinkled with coarse green foam.
These are intended to be forground trees, mainly because of how long it takes to make them which is about an hour each (ouch!). Making these trees is a "TV Time" activity for me mainly at night. The good news is the trees cost little to make and I believe they look good. Click on the pictures for a larger view.
Here are a couple of the armatures ready for foilage
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Here's a tree with foilage
When I got home I made a few armatures with the intent of coating them with gesso. When I went to my local craft store to purchase the gesso I was surprised to find out how costly it is. Instead of purchasing the gesso I made a poor man's version using white glue, a dash of gray liquid concrete colorant, and a secret (all purpose flour)thickening agent. I applied the mix to the armatures with a brush. The nice thing about this glue mix is that I can "set" it with a hair dryer in about 2 minutes and then apply a second coat. The mix also lasts well without drying as I've been using the "tub" of it for 10 days and it still it very usable. I've heard of possible "bug" problems using flour; however, the trees are painted which should seal them against attack by insects.
After the final coat (usually two coats are required) drys I use a hobby knife to scratch the trunk to simulate bark and then dry brush the entire armature with a gray craft paint. The foilage is Wood Scenics(tm) green poly fiber is stretched thin and attached with Hob-e-Tac(R). The fiber is misted with hair spray and sprinkled with coarse green foam.
These are intended to be forground trees, mainly because of how long it takes to make them which is about an hour each (ouch!). Making these trees is a "TV Time" activity for me mainly at night. The good news is the trees cost little to make and I believe they look good. Click on the pictures for a larger view.
Here are a couple of the armatures ready for foilage
All of the trees of course will have different trunks and limbs.
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Here's a tree with foilage
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